
The short version
What dry skin is actually missing
Dry skin (as opposed to dehydrated skin, which anyone can have for a week) is short on the lipids that hold the outer layer together — mostly ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids. With those depleted, water evaporates faster than it is replaced, which is why the tightness comes back an hour after a light lotion.
So the useful question isn't "how hydrating is it?" — almost everything is hydrating for twenty minutes. It's "what stops the water leaving again?"
A moisturiser that only humectants can be worse than nothing in dry air: it pulls water up and lets it evaporate.
Reading the label
The three jobs a good formula does
Humectants pull water in
Glycerin, hyaluronic acid, urea, panthenol, betaine. Glycerin high on the list is a better sign than hyaluronic acid on the front of the carton — it is cheap, unglamorous and very well evidenced.Emollients make it feel smooth
Squalane, plant oils, esters, fatty alcohols such as cetearyl alcohol. These fill gaps between skin cells so the surface feels soft. Pleasant, but on their own they don't stop water loss for long.Occlusives seal it in
Petrolatum, dimethicone, shea butter, lanolin, mineral oil. This is the part dry skin usually lacks. Petrolatum remains the most effective occlusive there is, and it is non-comedogenic despite its reputation.
Ceramide-led creams sit slightly apart: they replace the barrier lipids themselves rather than sealing over them. They are worth paying for when the dryness is chronic rather than seasonal — see our ingredient decoder to check whether a formula actually contains them or just says "ceramide complex" on the box.
How we score it
The ratings we'd check first
Barrier support
High
Ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids present in a sensible order — not a token pinch at the end of the list.Occlusive load
Medium to high
Enough film-forming to slow overnight water loss. This is the axis that separates a real dry-skin cream from a summer lotion.Price per ml
Checked in your currency
We compare GBP, EUR and USD so an import-inflated price can't make a cheap formula look premium.Fragrance
Your call
Not harmful for most people, but if dryness comes with itching or eczema, fragrance is the first thing worth removing.
In practice
Applying it so it works
Put it on damp — within about a minute of washing — so there is water at the surface to trap. In cold, dry months, a thin layer of something frankly occlusive over the top at night (the "slugging" trick) does more than moving up a price bracket.
If you use actives, the moisturiser goes after them, and a retinoid on top of a cream rather than under it is a normal way to make it tolerable.
Limits
Where the honest answer is 'we don't know'
Brands rarely publish how much of each ingredient is in the jar, so nobody — us included — can tell you a cream contains a "clinical" level of ceramides from the label alone. Where the amount isn't disclosed, we say so on the product rather than inventing a score.
Long-term barrier repair also depends on things a formula can't control: washing temperature, surfactant strength, indoor heating, eczema. A good cream helps; it isn't a diagnosis.
Related: moisturiser for oily skin, moisturiser for acne-prone skin, sunscreen for dry skin.
Free tools & guides
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- ToolIngredient decoderPaste an INCI list and see what each ingredient actually does.
- ToolPore clogger checkerFind the comedogenic ingredients, weighted by list position.
- ToolFungal acne checkerSpot the ingredients malassezia yeast can feed on.
- ToolPregnancy ingredient checkerScreen a formula for ingredients commonly avoided in pregnancy.
Early access
Rich, or just expensive?
We score moisturisers on barrier support, humectant and occlusive load, price per ml and how they actually feel — separately, so a nice texture can't hide a thin formula.
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